Embarking on a new adventure is always exciting, but the key to a smooth and enjoyable trip lies in...
How Our Japan Adventure Came to Be
For years, we’ve promised our kids that once they graduated high school, they’d get to pick the destination for our family vacation. Fast forward to May 2024: Jay, our eldest, walked across the graduation stage, and when it was time to choose our summer getaway, Jay’s answer was immediate and unwavering—Japan!
Both of my kids have had a long-standing fascination with Japanese culture. From the vibrant world of Nintendo and Pokémon to the allure of anime and the challenge of learning Japanese on Duolingo, their enthusiasm for all things Japan was palpable. So, when it came time to book our trip, their excitement was off the charts!
As the trip approached, Jay requested to bring along a high school friend. Since we needed two hotel rooms for our family of four anyway, we agreed, provided that the friend could cover his own airfare. He did, and so we set off as a group of five.
Touchdown in Tokyo
Our journey began with a flight from Chicago to Tokyo’s Haneda Airport, followed by a swift train ride to Kyoto for four nights. We then returned to Tokyo for another four nights before wrapping up our trip with two nights at Tokyo Disney. If you're itching to read more about our Disney adventure, check out my separate post dedicated just to that.
We chose United’s nonstop flight to Haneda, which is a bit closer to central Tokyo than Narita, the other international airport. While I wasn’t picky about which airport we landed at, I did want to keep costs down, so Haneda it was. Our 12-hour flight turned into a marathon 13.5 hours due to high headwinds and volcanic ash detours, making for a very long haul in economy. Sleep was elusive, but the flight itself was uneventful.
Arriving at Haneda was a bit of a process. We filled out forms, had our fingerprints and face scanned, and navigated the immigration lines - before having to repeat the whole process over again for customs. Even with only a few people ahead of us, the whole thing took over an hour, which wasn’t the most thrilling after our long flight.
Making Our Way to Kyoto
Our plan was to zip to Kyoto on the famous Shinkansen bullet train. However, since the Shinkansen doesn’t handle large suitcases without a special reservation, we used a luggage shipping service to send our bags ahead to our Kyoto hotel. For about $80, we shipped five big suitcases, making our journey much smoother.
From the airport, we took the subway into Tokyo and hopped on the Shinkansen. Tickets cost around $100 per person, and the ride took just over two hours—much faster than the nearly six-hour drive. We splurged a bit on reserved seats, but you can opt for non-reserved seats if you prefer. Trains run frequently, so buying tickets last minute is usually fine. Just be aware that the Shinkansen isn’t covered by the Japan Rail Pass anymore, so we skipped that option.
In Kyoto, we stayed at the newly opened Hyatt Place, conveniently located above a subway stop. I opted for familiar international brand hotels, and this one fit the bill. Japanese hotel rooms are compact and often charge per guest, so we booked two rooms—one for Jay and his friend, and one for the rest of us. The rooms were small but functional, with two twin beds and a rollaway bed in ours.
A nice touch at the hotels was the extra toiletries and pajamas provided for guests. The breakfast buffet was decent, though we only splurged on it once.
Exploring Kyoto
Getting around Kyoto was relatively easy once we got the hang of it. Japan's subway and train system is straightforward once you get the hang of it but can be confusing at first, especially in Tokyo. Paper tickets can be purchased from machines that only take cash, or you can buy stored-value IC cards to tap in/out of the subway. Unfortunately, we couldn’t buy the IC cards due to a chip shortage at the time we were traveling. So, we bought single-ride tickets each time. The machines and signs are bilingual, which helped navigate the system.
In Kyoto, we visited spots of personal significance for the kids: the original Nintendo headquarters, the current Pokémon Center, a Kirby Café, and some department stores. I managed to sneak in a visit to a temple complex, which was a lovely diversion, and the kids participated in a semi-cheesy Samurai Training Experience which also gave us an overview of the history of samurai in Japan.
The food was a highlight—curry, dumplings, ramen, and steaks. Looking back, I wish we’d booked a walking tour to learn more about Kyoto’s rich history, as it was the first capital of Japan.
We also ventured out on two day trips: one to the Studio Ghibli theme park near Nagoya and another to Osaka. Studio Ghibli tickets sell out quickly, so we had to be prompt online to secure ours. The park was expansive, and while I’m not a Ghibli aficionado, the kids and Zach enjoyed it. However, the sprawling layout and intense heat made it a bit challenging.
In Osaka, we primarily visited the Kirby Café and managed a quick trip to Osaka Castle. The city is renowned for its food, but the sweltering heat limited our explorations.
Departure and Reflections on Kyoto
On our last day, we opted for a relaxed morning and used the hotel’s luggage shipping service to send our bags ahead to Tokyo. Traveling light on the Shinkansen made the journey much more pleasant.
Starting our trip in Kyoto was a smart move—its smaller size and grid layout made it easier to navigate. Although I didn’t do extensive research beforehand, in hindsight, a bit more planning would have been beneficial. The city’s mix of old and new, along with its charming alleys and shops, made for a fascinating visit. The subway system, though initially tricky, became second nature by day two.
Kyoto’s heat was intense—high 90s and high humidity took their toll, leaving us a bit drained. But amidst the swelter, we discovered some of the best food, like hot katsu curry and fresh dumplings from (randomly) a department store cafeteria.
Part Two coming soon (but skip here to read about our Tokyo Disney experience!).
